A really long blog all about India!!!!

We are back on the ship and we are suppose to leave today at 5:30pm and arrive in two days in Myanmar. This should be a rather long blog so I will try to go by day that way it will hopefully have a little structure to it. First off going into India they told us that from experience of past voyages the students either love or hate India and that there is rarely an in-between. They also said that this is usually a port that changes people’s attitudes on the ship greatly after they return from India.

Day one (October 19, 2005)
I already described up until we left for dinner in a previous post so I will begin from there. We went to one of the 5 star hotels that was recommended by the people from the tourism office on the ship as well as some friends that said that they might be there. It is the Taj Comodara Hotel I believe. Anyways we went in and tried to find all of our friends who said that they were going to be having dinner there but we were unable to find them. So we decided to eat at the “Patio” restaurant which was anything but sitting out on the patio dinning al fresco. It was defiantly the best service I have ever had in a restaurant before. First when we sat down the waiter and the manager came over with two trays with silver domes on top and at the same time opened them presenting the menus to us. Then after ordering our drinks they came over with the house specialty drink complementary which was on a wooden cart they rolled over to the table. Which had a bottle of Champaign chilling and a crystal decanter that had blackberry liquor they mixed the two and served them in champagne glasses. It was a nice drink but more for the presentation that anything. After ordering our entrees the manager came over again with two plates with a small piece of fish on a bed of greens that was compliments of the chef. Next we received our entrees AJ got the stuffed chicken and I got the grilled grouper that sat on one of the best beds of salmon infused pasta I have ever had which were presented to us with the silver domes again. For desert we ordered an excellent grand mania soufflé that came out perfectly hot. And they finished us off with one of the coolest petite fours I have ever seen. They came over to the table with a tray that had a small dish with them on it and a bowl and a pitcher. Which they poured the pitcher into the bowl and say the small petite four tray on the bowl. Shortly after the dish started to smoke so there was obviously dry ice in it which made it look soo cool. ( I took photos of this so you can look forward to seeing it when we arrive in Myanmar). In the lounge right before we entered the main dinning room there was a man who played the piano the whole night who played great songs like Sinatra and such It actually reminded me a lot of the QM2 one we liked to go to so much. So AJ and I decided to stay and have a cigar which they continued to do the great service by dipping the cigars in cognac and lighting them for us. After this we decided to explore the hotel a little more, where we ended up finding the friends we looked for earlier and they said that they had been in a different restaurant in the hotel. We ended up hanging out in the upstairs lounge that had the another great pianist who ended up being from Chicago and they served surprising the best chips and salsa that we had, had in a long time. We ended making it back to the ship late but satisfied with our great find of the hotel.

Day 2 (October 20, 2005)
We woke up early this morning needing to meet the same rickshaw driver that we had used the night before at 8 am. Again there were two men one who drive half the time and the other would sit in the back with us, causing us to be really crowded considering that these rickshaws are made to hold only two people in the back and one in the front. To this day we still can’t figure out why they felt the need for two f them to drive us around considering all the other rickshaws only have one. It took us about an hour to get to the airport, but it was a fun rid getting to see all the people out early beginning their day especially all the little kids making their way to the school. Once we arrived at the airport there were about three or four different checks of people wanting to see our pre printed tickets before we could even think about getting to the check in counter. Only to find out that our flight had been delayed for another couple of hours till 12:15pm. At this time we tried to call our friend from Delhi that had gone the day earlier, but he didn’t answer his cell phone. We were worried because he had told us that he would arrange for someone to be there at the airport to pick us up, and that would take us to the his fathers hotel but since our flight had been pushed back so far from our original time, we didn’t know the name of the hotel, and had forgotten his last name we were kind of out of luck. Once we got on the plan at its delayed departure time we were informed that the plane was going to stop in Bangalore to let people off and to get more passengers. It was a short 35 minute flight but it was cool getting to see the city from the air as well as from the airport. Bangalore is where much of the technology is taking place in India for overseas companies. Because of this there was obviously a lot of construction underway building massive high-rise condos. From the air the view of both Chennai as well as Bangalore you get another perspective of how India has a population of over a billion people because there is buildings as far as the eye can see from the air. That is one note that I would make for Chennai is that everyplace that you could build a building or have a person stand there is one of the two or both. We finally arrived in New Delhi at around 5:30 pm where we borrowed someone’s phone to try to call our friend but again there was no answer.
To our surprise there was someone standing in a suit with a sign with our name on it the second we got off the plane. We picked up our bag that we had checked and headed towards the car where Nickel (the guy in the suit) introduced us to our chauffer that was dressed in the full India white suit with the white gloves and top hat. It was a beautiful white Toyota with leather seats and all the latest news papers inside, where they offered us chilled water bottles before we made our way to the hotel. Right before we pulled into the Hyatt Regency the driver said that we were here sir, hilarious this all starts the next four days of our time in India. ( oh and what we didn’t see in Chennai we saw a ton of the cows in middle of the roads and on the sides of the streets just as you see in the post cards in New Delhi). When we arrived at the hotel we were greeted by the concierge who ushered us to the desk to check us in. They then told us to that our friend from Delhi was on the phone who told us to take the car out on the town and see the sights that we could before it gets too dark in like an hour and a half. So we went straight out and the chauffer took us all around town to see parliament, the presidents house, the prime ministers house, the peace path which is where all of the embassy’s are (and you know that the American one was the most obnoxious looking one, as well as one that had the most security), he also took us to the cashmere shop. Which was another really cool expensive store but it was cool because all the clothing was made out of cashmere and was actually all from Cashmere. We talked him into taking us to one more store before we went back to the hotel where I was really able to bargain and get some good souvenirs.
When we arrived at the hotel we headed up to our room that was super nice with every amenity you could want, they even had the down comforter beds, pillows and sheets and everything which were soo comfortable. Our friend took us out to his favorite restaurant which was in the Sheraton hotel, it was like a Indian Texas de Brazil in the sense that a lot of it was cooked on skewers over the grill. The restaurant was rated by one of the travel magazines as one of the best in the world. We let Ammo order for us and we shared everything family style he ordered several different chicken dishes, prawns the size of lobsters, and a leg of lamb that was so tender that if you would of picked it up the meat would of all fallen off. ( The group that was with us in Delhi was made up of 7 SAS students and Patti Ammos friend). After dinner they took us around Delhi looking for a stand that made this dessert/breath mint called pann. It was a green leaf that was filled with 12 different spices and vegetables, which you are suppose to eat it all in one bite. It was ok, I am sure if I were more of a green vegetable fan it would have been better but it defiantly stays with you (the fresh breath it gives you that is).
Next we went back to the hotel to hang out for a little while, but it was late and everyone was tired so the group of four that was staying at Ammos house went home.

Day 3 (October 21, 2005)

We woke up to sunny skies outside and room service delivering fresh squeezed orange juice and omelets with all the different fixings such as chicken sausage (beef not being an option because of religious reasons in India). I actually got up early, excited to explore the hotel and more importantly the city. We spent most of the morning though in our room on the phone with Ammo who was trying to get his travel agent to arrange return flight tickets for us but the travel agent never called. Although we did get to explore the hotel a little before we left. It had a really cool pool area which was a never ending pool and was surrounded by supper short golf course grass which is where all the lounge chairs sit. Ammo called us a little before noon saying that he had things to do, but that he was sending our SAS friends and that they would have two chauffeurs take us around the whole town site seeing. The first site they took us to was the QUTB group of monuments which was very interesting. They were made by Muslim Emperors the first which was the tallest was actually done by about four different emperors each adding a different section making it taller and taller with a different design. Then one day the last empower made one that was suppose to be like twice as wide and twice as tall but he died and didn’t finish it so it just looks like rubble. Next we did a lot of the sight seeing that we had done the night before. And I forgot to tell you that around the parliament building there are probably 200 monkeys running around. On the fences, on the buildings, in the yards little ones and big ones everywhere. Then on one of the four main roads that take you to the political buildings has huge lawns where all the people hang out in the afternoon. This is where the chauffeurs got out all the sandwiches, fruit, chips and drinks for us to have a picnic. It was great being able to sit out and see all the buildings of such importance in a nation that is coming to such importance in our world today and be able to enjoy everything. (Side note sitting here typing this blog just got into an interesting conversation with a professors wife trashing republicans) anyways….
After this we were suppose to go to Ammos sisters house to pick her up so she could give us a factory tour. But for some reason we went back to the hotel to pick up Ammo. She decided that she would not be coming and we made about a 30 minute drive to the factory which had about 600 or so bikes sitting outside. We were greeted by his cousin and her husband who owned the factory that manufactured upscale clothing. They took us into this room that looked like a clothing store with leather couches and offered us all drinks. This room had all of the designs that had been done for future clothing where the buyers for their customers could come pick things out for their company to produce in orders from 1,000 to 50,000 in quantity. Then they brought in about 100 pieces of clothing that were older pieces from past examples and let the girls pick out all the ones that they wanted to take as well see if they had the right sizes when available. Then they took us through the five or so levels showing us step by step the process. One floor had all the material where they were going to cut it, then another had where they were sowing it, one where they were checking everything, and one where they were adding the sequins, and where they were packaging. They were even letting us pick out anything that was being produced for us to take one if we wanted. The problem was that they only produced women’s clothing. By the time we were all done the girls had obnoxious amounts of clothing probably all at least $1,000 worth if not more.
Next we got to do one of the highlights which was have a real Indian dinner at Ammos house. After a long drive we pulled up to a huge house with a guard outside that greeted us. We walked into the living room and then into the dinning room where the huge table was all set up for dinner. We ended up having an amazing 5 or so course vegetarian dinner that was amazing. There were probably 4 or so people waiting on us the whole time so that was a lot of fun. One of the dishes that were served was a cilantro soup that you are suppose to pour onto these egg shell looking pieces of fried flour that have potatoes and stuff in them. When it was about time for dessert Ammos mother came out and sat down with us. She is a really nice woman who showed us great hospitality along with Ammo the whole time we were in India.
We had to hurry though because Ammo had made arrangements for us to go to this lounge area that was brand new and his was worried that it would get to busy. So Megan AJ and I went back to the hotel to change and get ready. Then the cars came to get us and we made our way to the lounge that was outside of the park hotel. It is out by the pool that they have turned into a chic modern club at night. Although I have not been I have heard stories about hotel Za Za and it sounds a lot like there pool area at night. We ended up staying there for a long time, half way through it Ammo sent one of the cars to go pick up Linda, Kristen and Todd to come hang out with us. Then later on in the evening Ammo introduced us to a younger Indian couple that after talking to them was Ammos sister and brother in law. Some of the group already knew this because they had meet her at the house but at least AJ Megan and I had not. We stayed there till late and then made our way to the Orange club in the Ashlok hotel which ended up being where a bunch of the official SAS trips were staying. The entrance to this club was also outside and when we got there we didn’t go straight in because Ammo was down talking to the front desk for a while. This was surprising because in our travels we have always been ushured right in because of that whole American celebrity status. Although when we realized that since SAS was staying there and that we saw other SAS kids going inside that American status might not of been such a big deal. After a while a man in a suit came out and once he saw Ammo he kind of scolded the front door people for not letting us in right away.
We ended up having a great time here dancing and hanging out with friends from the ship that we hadn’t seen in a while. And also we did end up getting to hang out in the VIP lounge of this club also because of Ammos connection. It was after this that we kind of realized that Ammo in some respects is like Paris Hilton but classier. I decided to call it a night earlier that most although it wasn’t that early even since we had to be up and in the car at 6am so I took one of the cars back to the hotel.

Day 4 (October 22, 2005)
This morning came really early, we had to be downstairs to go to the Taj at like 6 am. At first I went to the concierge which is where Ammo told us to go to get the car. But they shrugged me off and told me to go to the other car desk to see if they knew anything about it. Of course they didn’t but they did have tickets on the train that we had pre-arranged before talking to Ammo about what we should do. He insisted that we take a car with a chauffer for comfort sake so we did. So I went back to the concierge and asked him if he knew anything about it again, finally I threw Ammos name around and he got really perky and ushered us out the door and into the car that was waiting for us. The driver for this day was Muslim, the reason why I say this is for two reasons first they are the minority in India as well as they are the ones who wear the turbin on their head which we were surprised that he was allowed to wear that instead of the chauffeurs hat but anyways we thought that it was interesting.
We slept most of the drive but saw some of the way sporadically on the way to the Taj. This was funny because one of the times when we woke up was right when a cow was crossing the road and I guess the driver thought it would get out of the way but it really didn’t. So we had to swerve and came within inches of hitting the bulls head.
When we got to the Taj we ended up deciding to get a tour guide which was paid like 275 rupees (which 43.5 rupees to the dollar) and he knew everything. It cost about $15 for the entrance fee into the Taj and after being in the car for that long the first thing we wanted to do was go to the bathroom. After that we were on the main deck with the Taj right in front of us about three hundred or so yards away. It was stunning, although we were told to go into it with the attitude that it was just a building. And it was a really really cool building but it was the history and the story that goes behind it that is so cool (if interested in it, just google and you will find more than enough info.) We took several photos here and some where it looks like we are holding the Taj in our hands. The cool thing about the Taj is that it is made out of Indian white marble which is supposed to be the best because of the crystals that you can see when looking at it. Also all the semi precious stones that make out the writing from the coran as well as the different floral designs. One of which is an orange stone which is the only one that glows in the dark, something that I would really like to see.
Half way up the Taj there is a raised platform made out of stone that was described as where the foreign dignitaries sit when they come to view it, as well as we had questions about all the fountains that are in the long pool in the front of it but they said that they only turn those on when there is a VIP in town. When you begin to go up the stairs to go into the Taj you must either take off your shoes or put on the booties that cover your shoes that were given to us with our entrance fees. The actual tombs or marble caskets you cannot see because they are under the main floor but you oust to be able to go see them. But the stairs down there were gated off and it was so funny watching the Indians reaction to this some would throw money or coins down there and others would get onto their hands and knees to try to peak in the dark even though it was obvious that you could not see in from standing there. Let me note that being able to go in was a treat because I didn’t realize that you could as well as you were not able to take photos while in. But anyways, they made a complete replica on what was beneath on top that you could see of the different tombs. After looking inside we exited and went around back to where you could see the river that looked a little low. I am sure when the water is up it is a lot prettier. Here there were people bathing/swimming in it, cows wading in it, and people filming from the other side of the river from the back. Because they do not allow film crews on the grounds so that is the only side you can film from. An interesting fact about the Taj is the four poles around it are at an angle so that if there was an earthquake or something they would fall to the sides instead of in to hit the Taj.
Now when looking towards the front of the Taj to the left and right there are identical aesthetically appealing buildings. To the left is a Mosque positioned there because of its direction towards Mecca. And the building to the right is where foreign dignitaries during the kingly rule stayed when they visited the Taj. Also I will post a photo of white marble steps in my web shots account that are like 20 or so in a row. The impressive thing about these is that they are made from one solid piece of marble pretty impressive to say the least. After we were done we went out on the opposite side of where the chauffer was so we ended hiring a bike rickshaw driver. That took us throughout Agra on our way towards the car. We ended up having a guy run with us for like 15 minutes trying to sale me a leather whip. Starting out at 10 US I kept saying NO because I wasn’t interested…he stayed at 5 US for a while and finally went down to 2. It was soo funny, he couldn’t understand why I didn’t want to buy his leather whip from him. On our way to the car I got to see several different Camels that you could rent to ride around on that were cool.
In regards to the Taj, yes it is just a building, no I wasn’t disappointed and everyone that ever goes to India should take the time to go see it. Next in the distance and over the river is the Agra fort. Which I believe is also called the red fort, which is funny because it was all white at one time. It is said to be the most important fort off all India. It has a mote around it and a huge wall and is made up of 16 palaces. We decided that we didn’t want a guide for this part so we made our way around ourselves reading the different signs. The best part of it was its commanding view of the Taj because it was set higher it really was cool to look out and see it with the river in the distance. We then asked the chauffer to take us to one of the palaces that had been turned into hotels that had these restaurants in them that we had heard so much about. But I am not sure if there was a lack of communication there, or if he just didn’t know where one was but he took us to some random Indian restaurant. The food was good, and I think now I might even start wanting to go with the guys to get Indian food more often. And all the entrees were really cheap like 2 US each. We then made the long drive back to the hotel that took like 3.5 hours.
When we got back to the hotel AJ and I decided that we were going to go swimming. But after calling Ammo on the phone he said that they were going to go shopping so we changed our minds and joined them downstairs. To find out that everyone but Ammo was going to go, but Ammos personal chauffer would join us and the regular hotel chamfers would drive and he would show us the best shops. It was funny because we would bargain for things and then every time we would get something he would ask how much and he would say we over paid when we thought that we got a good deal. After the set time was us to go to the next market, the girls said that they weren’t done yet and that they were going to stay there for at least another hour. So the guys decided that we were going to leave, and Ammos chauffer insisted that we should go to the next market with them. But we knew they were going to take forever and so he wasn’t really happy that he had to stay with the girls and I don’t blame him but at least he was getting paid to do it.
When we finally found one of the chauffeurs he was telling us that we needed to rush back to the hotel to pay for our return air tickets because the travel agent had aparentantly been at the hotel for a while waiting on us. We got there and paid the man then after talking to Ammo we said that we were going to go sit out by the pool. He told us that it was closed and so we were like well we will go do something else then. And randomly he was like how about a hair cut. I was like hair cut, that’s pretty weird I was like I just had one on the ship. Then he said how about a massage, I was like that’s more like it. So he took us down to the spa and had it arranged for us. It was defiantly one of the most luxurious ones I have ever been in. With an awesome hour massage then, one of those great showers that fills like it is just dumping rain at you, which made me more than revitalized for the night ahead.
Originally we were supposed to meet at around 8:45pm to go to dinner, but Ammo had some business he needed to take care of before we went to dinner so we pushed it back till around 10 and just hung out in the lobby bar chatting about all the cool things that we had done and seen that day. Eventually around 10:30 or so they walked us back to the restaurant and to our table in La Piazza the Italian restaurant in the hotel. The service was excellent and the food was even better. They started us off with the house specialty pizza that is topped with sun dried tomatoes and fresh pesto sauce. Then for appetizers, I had a kind of pizza pocket that was stuffed with fresh asparagus. And for my entrée, I had the fillet mignot (I know I know not supposed to eat beef in India but I figured Ammo was cool with it then there was no one left to offend). Everyone got a variety of other things but no one was able to eat even half of their entrée. Everyone was tired besides AJ and I so they ended up going home and we made our way to the nightclub that was there in the hotel. Which they are about to start renovating so Ammos sister can open up her first Chinese restaurant. The club was cool right there on the hotel property and looks a lot like an English pub. Although it was mostly businessmen that were probably all staying there at the hotel. They played a variety of music all ones people from the states would recognize. We only stayed for a little while here though because it was already about 1:30am or so and we had to get up to get ready to go to the airport at 5am.
It came early with the wake up by room service with the great fresh squeezed OJ. Right when we were about to go down Ammo called and said that he was downstairs and that he forgot a bag so we would have to meet him at the airport. So we took the car and they were actually there waiting on us right when we got there. Oh this is funny….Ammo said the night before at dinner that he hadn’t waited in line to get his boarding passes at the Delhi airport that they always sent people ahead of time to take care of this for us. So sure enough, when we got out of the car the airport manager and a bunch of guys who had stood in line to get all of our tickets were standing there ready to hand us our tickets. We were then rushed onto the plane to board and were in the air shortly after that. This is something that I hadn’t talked about. The service on all of the India airlines is amazing with the chilled towel upon sitting down in the plane as well as the always-hot meal and good drinks. When we arrived at the Chennai airport Ammo had arranged for two cars to be there waiting for us to take us around for the day with the beginning starting with breakfast. Ammo explained that in India breakfast and lunch are the main meals not dinner. And this was an event we let him order for us at this hotel we went to and we had an exceptional four course breakfast vegetarian of course for like $1.50 US. We spent the rest of the day exploring the shops and then the driver was able to bribe his was all the way to the gangway of the ship with everyone else having to tout their luggage about a mile from the outer security gate.
All in all India was amazing, I owe such a great deal of gratitude to Ammo and his family. The hospitality that his family showed to us will never be surpassed! I would sum up India in two words food, and service. Ammo always said what will make India great is its labor force if they can harness it and but it to full capacity. And he is completely right, India is on its way to become a super power in my generation and if the billion people can get all these things together, they will do amazing things. Now as I started with saying that they said on the ship that you will love or hate India. I think with a positive mind as well as positive outlook for the future of India everyone can enjoy what this great country especially the regions of the north has to offer!

Looking towards Myanmar we arrive in port tomorrow. We are traveling as fast as we have in the voyage yet at 27.5 knots and the sea depth is around 9,500 feet (I can’t believe it can get that deep). The reason for this speed is because we must hit the river at high tide tomorrow that will lead us into the harbor of Myanmar or else it will be too shallow for us to enter. We will actually be in the port for 7.5 days. We will be able to get off the ship for the first 6 and the rest we will have to stay on and go to class. I know some of you have heard of the bomb that went off in Yangon on Friday or Thursday. I know I read about it in the papers. They are assuring us that things according to their security company that they hired said things should be ok. At this time I am trying to get on this trip with some fellow Ambassadors from the ship that is 3 nights four days exploring Yangon which is about an hour away from the port, and another town which is another hour away from Yangon. But I have to wait and see if the tour agent will let them add my name on. If not I have several other friends who do not have anything else planned so who knows where we will end up or what we will end up doing. Apparently, there are not suppose to be any internet cafes in Myanmar so communication may be limited to that on the ship. Which you all know that is to a minimum. They are also saying that the phone calls are like $12 us a minute sooo. I love and miss all of you. You will have to let me know if any of you read this whole thing. But I wanted to try and get all this down for my records so when I try to remember this trip I can just go to my blog.

Chow

Chad